Smoked Reyka Cod, Tomato Pumpkin Purée, Sorghum Malt Bread, Blackberry Tart, Vanilla Bean Ice Cream
- Caroline Goulding
- Oct 21, 2021
- 13 min read
Updated: Nov 6, 2022
inspiration—palettes—method
Total Active Time: 91 minutes
Total Rest Time: 20-27 hours
Total Cook Time: 1 hour and 11 minutes
Prep: 35 minutes
Ingredients
Bread
Starter:
1/4 cup & 3 tbsp water (60 F)
1/2 cup white rye flour
3 and 1/2 tbsp sorghum flour
3 tbsp and 1 tsp light sourdough starter
Dough:
2 cups all-purpose white flour
1 cup & 2 and 1/2 tsp sorghum flour
1/2 cup & 1 and 1/2 tsp white rye flour
2 and 1/2 tsp of la baleine fine crystal salt
1 and 1/4 cup water (60 F)
1/3 cup barley malt syrup
1/2 tsp active dry yeast +++ **dusting flour mixture: one tbsp semolina flour and 5 tbsp all-purpose white flour
Cooking Method: Oven-Smoked
1 liter bottle of “Reyka” Vodka
4 cups oak wood chips
2 tbsp & 2 and 1/2 tsp dried licorice root
Meat
1 white cod fillets
1 large lemon
1 tsp fleur de sel salt
Sauce
Tomato Purée:
1 baby orange pumpkin
1/3 cup cherry tomatoes
2-3 small garlic cloves
1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
2 tsp mascarpone
1 tsp cinnamon powder
1 tsp ground unsalted roasted cashews
Butter
1/2 cup pumpkin purée
1/4 cup unsalted butter
2 and 3/4 tbsp maple sugar
3/4 tsp ground cinnamon
1/4 tsp coarse salt
Dessert
Ice Cream:
1 vanilla bean
2 cups heavy cream
1 & 1/2 cup condensed milk
1/2 cup mascarpone cheese
1/4 tsp la baleine salt
Blackberry Tart:
Rosemary Oat Graham Crust (Layer 1)—
1/2 cup & 2 and 1/2 tbsp all-purpose white flour
1/4 cup & 2 and 1/2 tbsp oat flour
1/4 cup & 2 tbsp graham flour
2/3 cup powdered sugar
3/4 cup shortening
1/2 cup whole milk
1 - 2 tsp rosemary stems
1/2 tsp nutmeg
1/4 tsp la baleine fine crystal salt
Caramelized Cashew Brittle (Layer 2)—
1 cup ground roasted unsalted cashews
1 cup white cane sugar
1/2 cup clover honey
1/4 cup unsalted butter
1/4 cup lemon juice
1 tsp kosher salt
Maple Blackberry Mantle (Layer 3)—
5 cups fresh blackberries
2/3 cup maple sugar
5 tbsp ground roasted unsalted cashews
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon +++
powdered sugar for topping
Method
Prep—
Bread
Starter:
1. Prepare your palette board: Measure the following ingredients and place them on a blank slab:
water
white rye flour
sorghum flour
light sourdough starter
2. In a small bowl, pour the starter, flours and water and mix until bound into a lightly incorporated sticky mass. 3. Let rest covered for five to twelve hours, watching the starter as it rises and observing its peak between the two frames of reference.
Dough:
1. Prepare your palette board: Measure the following ingredients and place them on a blank slab:
all-purpose white flour
sorghum flour
white rye flour
la baleine fine crystal salt
water
barley malt syrup
active dry yeast
2. In a large mixing bowl, pour the flours, salt, and dry yeast and mix with your fingers until incorporated. 3. Remove the cover from the starter and pour a fourth of the water into the bowl to release the starter from sticking to the sides of its container. Then, add the starter with water to the larger bowl and mix once again with your hands, adding the rest of the water, and the malt syrup in an incremental and stepwise motion. 4. Using your hands, mix until a ball of dough begins to take shape. 5. Once again take your hands and your fingers and scrape the bottom of the bowl to gather all of the dough that you possibly can and that your hand can hold before scooping with palm the entirety of dough up from bottom of the bowl. Slowly stretch the palmed dough as far above the rim of the bowl as will allow , before plunging it back upon itself and deep into the bowl. 6. Repeat this motion of stretching as long as it takes in order to sufficiently create a more solid and sturdy mass of dough. This should take around fifteen to twenty minutes with intermittent breaks to let the dough adapt to the newly reached level of dexterity. These periods of pause will also enable the dough to fully prepare itself for the increase in dexterity implied by the next stretch. 7. When the dough has reached its full potential of elasticity, quickly reorganize the dough into a tight ball centralized at the bottom of the bowl and contain it covered at room temperature for a duration of forty-five minutes. Keep it contained by a muslin cloth, piece of plastic wrap or other form of covering that may come to mind and keep it from dehydrating. 8. Stretch and Three-Fold Sequence One: Release the cover from the bowl, and transfer the rested dough to a well-floured surface.
9. Gently stretch the dough on the floured surface into a rectangle with right angles.
10. Horizontally fold the dough either from left to right or right to left three times or until the dough completes itself in a horizontal pattern.
11. Repeat the motion now vertically, folding the bread upon itself from top to bottom or bottom to top in a sequence of three or until the dough completes itself once more before taking your hands and allowing the bread to recompense into its original ball like form.
12. Recover the dough and let rest for forty-five minutes at room temperature.
13. Stretch and Three-Fold Sequence Two: Repeat the first sequence exactly, stretching the dough out upon the floured surface, making the three-fold motion twice, once horizontally from left to right or right to left and once vertically from bottom to top or top to bottom. Then, take your palms once again and soften the squared edges of the bread into a warmed ovular mass.
14. Again, let the more elasticized dough rest for a period of forty-five minutes covered at room temperature.
15. Final Stretch and Three-Fold Sequence: Spread the dough upon the floured surface and repeat the vertical and horizontal three-folds one final time, pulling the edges of the dough underneath itself into a fully formed spherical mold and let the dough rest for a coda time of twenty minutes at room temperature. 16. Removing the cover, place the worked and rested dough into a clean bowl, cover and transfer to the refrigerator in order to ferment the dough for fifteen hours at the new and cooled temperature.
Wood-Chip Brine
1. Prepare your palette board: Measure the following ingredients and place them on a blank slab:
Reyka vodka
oak wood chips
licorice root
2. Lay the wood chips in an empty deep square baking dish and spread them out so that there is no empty space across the bottom of the pan. 3. Submerge the chips in the vodka and let soak for seven hours at room temperature covered.
4. Remove the chips from the dish and place them on a second baking sheet in order to dry three-quarters of the way — ensuring that there is one-fourth of liquid left for your smoke. Three hours.
5. Hold excess vodka in a separate container until ready to smoke.
Dessert Ice Cream:
1. Prepare your palette board: Measure and contain the following ingredients and place them on a blank slab:
vanilla bean
heavy cream
condensed milk
mascarpone cheese
la baleine salt
2. In a medium mixing bowl, pour the heavy whipping cream, condensed milk, mascarpone and salt and stir with a wooden spoon or other utensil until well combined. 3. Transfer the mix to a plastic container, cover it with lid and place the container in the freezer for at least four hours or until fully solid. 4. Remove the container from the freezer, and let rest at room temperature for thirty to forty-five minutes or until slightly softened to the degree that it is manageable enough to easily scoop a chunk at a time of it into a food processor.
5. Cut open the pod and insert the interior of the bean into the softened mixture. Transfer the mixture to a food processor and lightly pulse for thirty to forty-five seconds, adding air bubbles in order to supply a buoyancy of creaminess to the ice cream concoction.
6. Pour the mixture back into the plastic container and contain it once more with the lid. Let refreeze for a final four to eight hours or until it recommences into solidity.
Blackberry Tart:
Rosemary Oat Graham Crust (Layer 1)—
1. Prepare your palette board: Measure the following ingredients and place them on a blank slab:
all-purpose white flour
oat flour
graham flour
powdered sugar
shortening
whole milk
rosemary stems
nutmeg
la baleine fine crystal salt
2. In a medium mixing bowl, pour in the flours, sugar, nutmeg, rosemary stems and salt and mix until well incorporated.
3. Next, add the shortening, and milk and combine with your fingers until gooey. Set aside.
4. Prepare a square eight-inch deep baking dish with a wax baking sheet and spread the gooey mixture until the four edges of the pan are met, and the entirety of the bottom of the pan is completely with the goop.
5. Cover and let rest at room temperature until ready to bake. (One hour). Caramelized Cashew Brittle (Layer 2)—
1. Prepare your palette board: Measure the following ingredients and place them on a blank slab:
ground roasted unsalted cashews
white cane sugar
clover honey
unsalted butter
lemon juice
kosher salt
Maple Sugar Blackberry Mantle (Layer 3):
1. Prepare your palette board: Measure the following ingredients and place them on a blank slab:
fresh blackberries
maple sugar
ground roasted unsalted cashews
ground cinnamon
2. In a large bowl, pour the blackberries followed by the sugar, cinnamon and roasted ground cashews. Mix with your hands until well incorporated and set aside at room temperature for no longer than sixty minutes in order to soften the berries before the bake.
Meat and Sauce
1. Prepare your palette board: Measure, chop and grind the following ingredients and place then on a blank slab:
large lemon
fleur de sel salt
baby orange pumpkins
cherry tomatoes
small garlic cloves
extra virgin olive oil
mascarpone
cinnamon powder
unsalted roasted cashews
2. Using a sharp cutting utensil, carve out the top of the pumpkin, creating an opening that is large enough to place the tomatoes in. With a wooden spoon or other scooping tool, thoroughly scrape out the interior of the pumpkin including its seeds. (Separate the seeds from the stringy goo by running water over each one and spread them out on a clean baking sheet allowing them to fully dry. Store them in an old spice jar until using for a later recipe).
3. Pour a tablespoon of the olive oil into the pumpkin followed by a pinch of kosher salt and half of the minced garlic cloves in order to help prepare, perfume, and permeate the inside baking environment.
4. Place the chopped tomato halves inside of the pumpkin and pour the remainder olive oil and half of the cinnamon over the tomatoes. 5. Next, top the tomatoes with the mascarpone, a pinch more of salt, the remainder of cinnamon and finally the roasted ground cashews and allow to rest until ready to bake.
Butter
1. Prepare your palette board: Measure the following ingredients and place them on a blank slab:
unsalted butter
maple sugar
ground cinnamon
kosher salt
Heat—
Bread
1. Remove the dough from the refrigerator and let adjust to room temperature for one hour while the oven is preheating.
2. Place a baking sheet-lined lidded dutch oven or oven-safe soup pot directly in the center of the oven and preheat to 500 degrees F for forty minutes.
3. Place an ice-filled cast-iron skillet filled on the lowest rack of the oven for an additional twenty minutes— long enough for the water to begin boiling and for steam to begin rising out of the cast-iron skillet and immersing the vessel with condensation—totaling a preheat time of sixty minutes.
4. During this time, place the dough upon a flat floured surface. Flour the dough quickly with dusting flour.**
5. Scoring: With a bread scorer, or razor, begin to score the dough’s surface.
6. In order to create a symmetrical score, take a long piece of wire such as a violin string and lightly press the length of it into the surface of the dough in order to guide your designing needs. Initially, press the string or wire into the surface of the dough to form the outlines of vertical and horizontal axises in order to strengthen the circumference of the curved dough. Progress from there by choosing to add guiding lines to reflect the various angles of a circle as you so choose in order to fully benefit from the symmetrical design of your imagination’s needs when it comes time to score.*
5. When finished scoring, place a form of covering over the dough until sixty minutes has passed.
6. When this times comes, put your oven mitts on, open the oven door and carefully remove the dutch oven or oven-safe soup pot from the oven. 7. Take off the lid and place the scored dough inside, place the lid back on, open the oven door, and transfer the pot back to its place on the middle rack of the oven directly above the source of steam.
8. Lower the temperature to 460 degrees F and bake for a total of thirty minutes. 9. After thirty minutes, remove the lid from the dutch oven and continue to heat with no lid for an additional twenty minutes or until a crisp and darkened crust has arisen. 10. Remove from heat: When slightly cooled and manageable to touch, gently but firmly knock on the bottom of the bread in order to ensure that it is properly cooked through by listening for a hollowed timbre to your knuckle’s distinctive inquiry. 11. Let sit for at least five hours and at most thirty six hours before trying it or serving it in order for the bread to fully express all of its qualities and ingredient complexities.
Dessert
Blackberry Tart:
Rosemary Blackberry Crust (Layer 1)—
1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. 2. Place the baking dish holding the prepared crumb mixture into the oven for twenty minutes or until slightly golden on top. Remove from heat. Let cool until ready for the second bake.
3. Lower the oven temperature to 300 degrees F.
Caramelized Cashew Brittle (Layer 2)—
1. Heat a small saucepan on high and add the sugar and lemon juice. Cook until the sugar dissolves into the acid, stirring on occasion in order to fully incorporate the elements. 2. Add the honey and butter. Stir until fully mixed. Finally, add the ground cashews and continue to heat the mixture until there is a clear change in its coloration from light to dark burgundy and the temperature reaches 300 degrees F. Measure with a candy thermometer. 3. Heat off. Quickly transfer the warm liquidized brittle to the deep square baking dish, pouring it slowly and steadily upon the top of the freshly-baked crust.
4. Using a rubber spatula, spread the brittle from one end of the crust to the other, completing a full layer upon the crust’s surface.
5. Add the maple sugar blackberry mantle (Layer 3) to the top of the brittle, again spreading the blackberries from end to end, completely covering the brittle.
6. Transfer the square baking dish to the oven and cook at the newly lowered temperature for an additional thirty-eight minutes or until blackberries are completely softened. To test this, take a sharp skewer or toothpick and pierce through the tart. If it pierces easily and can be removed with no remains then the tart is fully cooked. If not fully cooked, place back in the oven for three to four minutes.
7. Heat off. Allow to cool.
+++ 8. Add the powdered sugar when the surface has cooled and continue to let it sit until ready to serve.
Meat, Sauce and Wood Chips
1. Flambéing the chips: Preheat the oven to 500 degrees F.
2. Using oven mitts, carefully remove the central rack of the oven and place the other at mid-point of the lower-half of the oven. Close the door. 3. Remove the fish fillets from the refrigerator and place them on a clean surface. Salt and lemon the fish with the fleur de sel salt and fresh lemon. 4. Return just enough of the vodka to the original square baking dish that held the soak in order to cover the bottom of the dish and place the dampened wood chips back into the dish.
5. Place a piece of foil atop the bottom of the baking pan and spread the chips evenly so that no empty space exists on the bottom of the pan.
6. Place a metal grilling rack on the rim of the square baking dish above the vodka and chips and then tightly cover the entire mechanism with tin foil. Using a fork or toothpick, punch two holes into the roof of the foil in order to allow a morsel of air flow through the tent.
7. Insert the tented dish into the oven and place it on the lowest rack. Three -five minutes.
8. Allow the chips to begin heating until you see a millisecond-long flame erupt out of the tented vessel. At this point, the chips should be smoking.
9. Turn heat immediately to 375 degrees F. Remove the dish from the oven. Open the foil and place the pumpkin on the metal rack atop the rim of the dish. Using additional foil, efficiently re-contain the rack and dish until tightly covered, maintaining the two tiny holes’ ability to circulate the steam and smoke arising from the bottom of the pan. 10. Quickly and carefully place the covered dish back into the oven and lower the temperature to 350 degrees F. Smoke for twenty to twenty five minutes. 11. Open the oven and take the dish out once more. Remove foil enough to place the fillet on the grill rack next to the pumpkin.
12. Place the fillet on the grill rack next to the pumpkin. Repair foil to create tight containment of the dish. Transfer back into the oven.
13. Let cook for eight to ten minutes.
14. Remove the dish from the oven and check the fish. It should be seventy-one percent cooked. Lower the heat to 300 degrees F. 15. Place back into the oven re-foiled at the new temperature for five minutes.
16. Remove from heat. Release foil. Check the fish with a thermometer to ensure that it has an internal temperature of 140-45 degrees F.
{**The fish should be flaky, creamy and light when engaging with a fork’s edge. The tomatoes inside of the pumpkin should be softened and the juices excreting from them as the cheese is melted. The pumpkin’s exterior should be easy to pierce through} … Test!
17. Heat off. Transfer the cod to a plate and using a spoon, delicately spread the purée inside of the pumpkin to your liking across the fish!
Butter
1. Vertically split the pumpkin in half and scrape the inside of the pumpkin‘s interior with a spoon. Using a blender or food processor, purée the interior of the pumpkin until smooth. Set aside. 2. In a small skillet on high heat, add the butter and salt. Thirty seconds.
3. When the butter has nearly melted, add the brown sugar, lower the heat to low and stir until fully dissolved. 4. Continue to stir the mixture in order to ensure that nothing sticks to the bottom of the pan and add the pumpkin purée.
5. Turn the heat to medium-high for an additional thirty to forty seconds as the mixture should be thoroughly bubbling at this point, continuously and gently stirring.
6. When the mixture alerts your sense of smell like a sharp knife and thereafter immediately rounds , turn the heat off and let cool.
7. Place on a butter dish and serve alongside the Sorghum Malt Bread, atop the vanilla bean ice cream or store for a later time.
Taste & Enjoy!
Color to the Method—
Music to the Method—
J. S. Bach: Partita no. 1 in B minor BMV 1002: Allemande — Double
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